Showing posts with label plating. Show all posts
Showing posts with label plating. Show all posts

7.19.2011

Steak Only or Surf & Turf 單吃牛排還是來個海陸


After skipping two years, I "resumed" our annual wine party two weeks ago. For everyone who got a few slices of the barbecue grilled ribeye, the consensus was "not enough!" Soon after the party, our new skier friends started this whole steak dinner discussion on Facebook. I was heading out to the Bay Area for a short business trip the following week, so I thought I better have another dinner-at-home gathering soon so we all didn't have to wait too long for big juicy chunks of steak. Now, should we do steak only or surf & turf? Surf and turf of course! What kind of surf? Big prawns or lobster? I thought I'd make up my mind at the market. Guess what? They had fresh small spiny lobsters for US$5 each! Bin Jiang market (濱江市場) is sort of a whole-sale traditional market in Taipei (huge place!), and is where you can find some of the best produce, meat, and seafood in Taipei. Boy this dinner quickly got upgraded big time. Thinking the lobster would be worthy of having its own course, I also decided to throw in risotto, another "component" I've never cooked before. Having lobster and steak separate made it easier for wine-paring anyway, as I found out in the last dinner that these good friends LOVE WINE.



Dinner Menu 11 June 2011:


Appetizer
Orange Teriyaki Seared Tuna
橙汁照燒生煎鮪魚
served with yamaimo and asparagus 附山藥 蘆筍

Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio 2009
Banrock Station Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot

Seafood Course
Lobster in Garlic Butter
蒜味奶油龍蝦
set on mushroom risotto  蘑菇義式燉飯

Perelada Cava 西班牙香檳 (from MoonWine Wine Shop)

Meat Course
Australian Ribeye with Red Wine Jus
澳洲肋眼牛排佐紅酒醬汁
truffle mashed baby red skin potatoes and sauteed mushrooms
搭配松露紅馬鈴薯泥 煎鴻禧菇

Kendall Jackson 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
Don David Malbec 2009

Dessert
Baked Caramel Apple Puff Pastry
烤酥皮焦糖蘋果
with vanilla ice cream 佐香草冰淇淋


    This seared tuna appetizer is something I've wanted to cook again for a long time. I've had good seared tuna in the US, but haven't found anything good in local restaurants here in Taipei. I found a few recipes online and combined the best parts of them to my own liking. The marinade actually has orange juice, yes, orange juice. Raw tuna maguro, unless extremely fresh, doesn't have much taste (of course, toro or tuna belly is whole different ball game). By searing the outside with high heat, the sugar is slightly caramelized and brings much more aroma to the tuna. Mixed with the orange teriyaki sauce, ginger, wasabi, and scallions, this dish packs plenty of punch to the taste buds. Pinot Grigio was a little too light to counter the rich Asian flavors, so we quickly corrected that with a sparkling Chardonnay Pinot (like, not a problem at all when someone screams "drink up we gotta switch wine!"). This was also the first time I used sliced asparagus in a dish, as I think it's a visually-pleasing way of presenting asparagus, with greening outline on the edge of the white slices.




    Yes, I've always thought about making risotto, but never got around to it. A college buddy was so proud when he found out he cooked risotto before I did! With a box of Italian Riso Scotti risotto rice in my pantry and vague memories of chefs making risotto on TV (and horror stories of over-cooking it into porridge), I went for the "challenge" and was really mentally prepared to fail miserably. "If it's bad, I just won't serve it right?" I thought. As it turned out, it wasn't that difficult after all -- slowly ladling stock in, constant stirring, and frequent tasting did the job. I was even able to maintain a bit of bite in the rice core, not bad for first time! Now onto the lobster. I've made grilled and roasted lobsters tons of times before, but I've always used Maine lobsters (with claws). This is the first time I'm working with spiny lobster. I'm a big opponent of boiling lobsters, because I think some of precious juice is lost during the process (probably just a personal myth). Borrowing a cooking method of an Australian lobster farmer I saw on TV, I split the lobsters in half, and seasoned the lobsters in salt and pepper, and sauteed with med-low heat in olive oil and butter mixture, adding garlic and fresh parsley about mid way through the 8-minute cooking process. The result was a wow'ing succulent, sweet, and tender lobster. I know I'm biased because I cooked it, but man I ended up eating the lobster so slowly, enjoying every bite in my mouth. We paired this course with Spanish Cava semi-seco, a good balance of delicate savory flavors and sweetness of the wine.


    Since I had "surf & turf" in my mind, I started Googling for surf & turf plating ideas during the week. Boy there were some ugly plating pictures. Let's say I was quite relieved to separate the lobster from the steak. There're also quite a few ways to present steak, but I think I like the ones that clearly show the medium-rare color of the beef. What sides should go with the beef? Since I was going high-end with lobster already, I thought truffle baby red skin mashed potatoes would be a winner. Baby red skin potatoes have a natural creamy, silkiness texture that, in my opinion, is much better than good old Idaho potatoes. I used to add truffle oil directly into the big pot of mash, but not anymore. I think you taste much more truffle if you drip it on top of the mash in your plate - simply sends sensory systems through the roof. I also had creamed spinach in the plan, but that turned out to be a total disaster, so the sauteed mushrooms was a last-minute swap-out. Last but definitely not least, let's talk about the red wine jus now. To me, the jus was what MADE the dish. I used to cheat and do a bunch of ad-hoc methods to make the steak sauce, with inconsistent successes. I wanted to make sure this steak dish is really steak-house / bistro quality, so I followed the Bouchon red wine jus recipe to the T. Basically, the sauce consisted of standard mirepoix, mushrooms, thyme, bay leaf, half bottle of red wine, and beef stock, reduced and strained through cheese cloth. Gosh the sauce really elevated the Australian grain-fed ribeye at so many different levels. At that instant, I wasn't missing US beef that much (though I still prefer it). On top of all this, I had a creme brulee torch gun for everyone to char up the ribeye fat on the table, talk about entertaining! This was definitely one of the best dishes ever coming out of our kitchen.

    Sometimes, I amaze myself with the number of decisions made and problems encountered during the course of preparing a dinner. It's all good, love every second of it.


    Dessert has never been my forte. I found a bakery supplier in our neighborhood recently, a store that sells supplies to the bread and cake shops in the city. Simply out of curiosity, I bought some frozen puff pastry without any idea of how I'd use it. What I had in mind for tonight's dessert was an upside down caramel apple pie, but wasn't quite sure if I could do it with puff pastry. I didn't want to do caramel apple without the pastry, so I went for the apple and puff pastry combo without knowing what would happen. The steps were: cut up the golden delicious, stirred into caramel (didn't get as brown as I'd like), put into baking pan, laid pastry over, and baked for 20 minutes - pretty straight forward and simple dessert. Ice cream melting on warm fruit is an formula to make people happy.


    This was one of the best dinners I've cooked in the past few years. I don't want these skier friends to get used to this, because heck the next dinner might get a hiccup or two (or a complete disaster). Alright folks, I'll strive for perfection! Thanks all for another fantastic evening, and all your kind compliments on the food!

    Date: 2011.6.11

    6.26.2011

    Who Could Resist Risotto 誰能抵擋義式燉飯的魅力



    It's been two weeks since I cooked my first ever risotto dish. Coming home from a few "scallop mishaps" while teaching my cooking class on Sunday, Rena asked if I could make risotto for dinner.

    "Can we have risotto and scallops tonight.....? YOU make it!"
    "Sure, why not?"

    For one thing, I love risotto myself, especially that al dente core of each rice grain. But, what I really wanted to do was properly sautee scallops using the right ingredients, just to make up for what happened in class.

    兩週前第一次煮了義式燉飯。今天在教料理課時發生了些"干貝意外",回到家後 Rena 說今晚想吃燉飯,

    "晚上可以吃 risotto 跟干貝嗎.....? 你煮!"
    "uh...好吧"

    我自己蠻喜歡義式燉飯的,特別是那硬硬的米心,但主要還是想好好的煎出漂亮的干貝,彌補上課時的小狀況。

    As I was making the stock, I started thinking about how to plate the dish to make it visually pleasing. (is "plating" a hobby?) I remembered picture of a risotto dish made by a Michelin-starred chef in Rome, on how he was able to mold the rice into an elegant cylinder instead of the typical "blob" in a shallow bowl. I haven't used my molding toys for eons anyway, so that was the plan. I also remembered my mother gave me a bag of dried Japanese scallops from home. Dried scallops are highly prized in Asia, and bring a fantastic element into otherwise plain vegetables or soups. I decided to add that into the risotto, I mean, we've already got fresh scallops, so why not add more scallop flavors into the equation. Dried scallops are easy to use - pretty much soak it up in water to re-hydrate and you're ready to go. The soaked water also contains tons of flavor so that'll be part of my stock.

    Cooking, a lot of times, is about improv, like stand-up comedy.

    開始做高湯時,在想燉飯擺盤要怎麼弄才會好看 (擺盤能算是嗜好嗎?),突然想到有次看到一位在羅馬的米其林星級主廚做 risotto 的照片,是用模子把飯塑成圓形, 而不是一陀擺在盤子上的做法。反正我的圓形模子也大概八百年沒用了,決定來試試這擺法。另外,我媽前陣子給了我一包乾的日本干貝,想說已經有煎的鮮干貝了,再多加些干貝應該 OK 吧? 自家料理通常都不計成本,而且泡乾干貝的水也可以替高湯增添味道。

    做菜常常是很即興的,想加甚麼就加甚麼,有點像老外的那種台上即興表演。

    Making risotto requires a bit of patience, because you really have to ladle stock in slowly and stir diligently, or you won't end up with the right creamy consistency. In the end, I had onion, sauteed mushrooms, dried Japanese scallops, and English aged cheddar cheese in the risotto. A bit of departure from classics, but I think it worked well.

    料理燉飯還蠻需要耐心的,因為高湯必須慢慢地加入鍋裡,然後不停地攪拌讓義大利米的澱粉釋放,才會最後有很濃稠的外表跟口感。今晚的燉飯裡有洋蔥、煎白姬菇、瑤柱、英國 cheddar 乳酪。沒有很遵循傳統,但覺得這樣的中西組合還不錯。

    Seared scallops are really simple to make - pat dry scallops thoroughly, remove "foot", season with sea salt and white pepper, heat stainless pan with grape seed oil till super hot, sautee 1 minute on one side and 30 seconds on the other and get them out of the frying pan as soon as humanly possible.

    For plating, I molded the risotto, placed scallops on top, and added some chopped tomatoes as garnish. I happened to have a bottle of basil oil from class, so that was squeezed around the risotto. Right when I thought I was done, I remember Serena's mother gave me a small bottle of truffle oil! Mrs. Hsu gave me all these imported expensive Italian ingredients and asked if I could cook them and take pictures of the dishes. What a rough request, right? Anyway, the ring of truffle oil on the plate was the final touch to the dish.

    煎干貝的作法超簡單: 擦乾干貝,移除小肌肉,用海鹽和白胡椒調味,平底鍋放入葡萄籽油加到高溫,第一面煎一分鐘,第二面煎三十秒,然後迅速的將干貝從鍋子裡取出。

    我把燉飯用圓形模子擺好後,上面放了三顆干貝,然後再加上少許的碎番茄點綴。中午教學時剛好有一瓶羅勒油,就在飯的周圍擠了一圈。就在覺得已經完成時,記得 Serena 的媽媽送了我一瓶義大利進口的松露油,徐媽送了我一些義大利的食材,說只要我煮好拍照片給他就好了,真是好康啊! 最後當然就在盤子的外圍滴了一圈的松露油來做 finish。


    We ate the Italian flag that night.

    晚上吃了義大利國旗。

    Scallops and truffle oil really match perfectly. Risotto has so many variations so I don't think I'll run out of risotto ideas any time soon...risotto with pesto...saffron... We'll see what I feel like next time. I wonder what would happen if I use Asian short-grain rice to make risotto - might have to give that a try later.

    干貝搭配松露油只能說是絕配。義式燉飯的作法很多種,應該很難重複,青醬燉飯...番紅花燉飯... 就看下次要煮時的心情如何。不知台灣本地的白米是否可以用義式燉飯的做法煮,可能下次要來試一下。

    Date: 2011.6.26